Travel along Korea's DMZ brings gamut of emotions

  • Published
  • By Daren Reehl
  • Air Force Print News
PANMUNJOM, South Korea (AFPN) --  One rest stop and several dozen cramped legs later, Airmen from the southern coastal base of Kunsan in South Korea gazed from their chartered bus into a colorful mix of culture and history for their first stop that would end as one of the more memorable days of their lives. 

I was fortunate enough to spend a day with several men and women from the 8th Fighter Wing, commonly referred to as the Wolfpack, and follow their tour of the famed demilitarized zone that separates the democratic south from the communist north. It would be a ride that would take us through the gamut of emotions, from laughter to awe to some very solemn moments. 

Our first stop was to a cultural village called Paju or Paju City, where we spent about two hours exploring various monuments dedicated to both Koreans and Americans who played important roles in Korean history. The Airmen were hot commodities here, with Koreans clamoring to take photos alongside the American servicemembers. At one exhibit, where we climbed four flights of stairs to get to the top, we had our first glimpse of North Korea just across the Kaesong River, about four miles away. 

Our next destination was one that was a bit more surreal. It was a trip to the Freedom Road, a stretch of road ending at the border, with a stark reminder of a very physical barrier that keeps relatives and loved ones from each side permanently separated. 

South Korean citizens post messages to their northern brethren, knowing that they will never be read by those intended for them. But still, it gives them a feeling of connection.
As the tour progressed toward the final destination of Panmunjom, rolls of concertina wire became more prevalent and signs cropped up warning of mine fields in the area. 

Our stop was to a heavily guarded outpost called Camp Bonifas, named after Army Capt. Arthur Bonifas, one of the soldiers murdered by North Koreans during the infamous axe murders of 1976. Bonifas and 1st Lt. Mark Barrett were tasked with overseeing a detail attempting to remove trees that were obstructing the view from the Joint Security Area in an area patrolled by both sides. North Korean soldiers grabbed several axes and murdered both Bonifas and Barrett. 

At Camp Bonifas, we were given a security briefing about the dangers of the DMZ and Panmunjom, where peace talks have been conducted between the two sides for more than half a century. 

Both sides have villages set up along the border to represent their cultures. But only South Korea has the real thing. The North Korean village of Gijeong-dong is more aptly called "Propaganda Village," because it is actually a staged "prop" where only caretakers and an occasional loud speaker attempt to give it a sense of normalcy. 

The South Korean village of Daeseong-dong is an actual farming village where only ancestral families of the area are allowed to live there. Farmers can be seen working the same fields their ancestors have been cultivating for centuries. 

Tensions began to mount as we rounded a corner and found ourselves at our final destination. There was a different feel and mood as the Airmen climbed from the bus. As we entered the Joint Security Area an eerie silence began to fall. 

Our first stop was the Freedom House, a building erected in 1998 to provide a meeting place to allow families from both sides to meet and get to know each other. So far, it's never been used. 

We then were shepherded to a series of buildings that are used by both sides for talks and negotiations. This is the DMZ at its most tense and dramatic. A large granite building with a huge North Korean flag and an imposing guard marks the entrance to North Korea. We are told by our host, a young Army staff sergeant assigned to Camp Bonifas, that the North Koreans may make gestures toward us, some menacing, but we're told not to respond in kind. We are told that our every move is being watched and monitored. 

The blue buildings we entered are referred to as T-1, T-2 and T-3. Running down the center of each building is the exact line between north and south -- freedom and tyranny. The South Korean (or Republic of Korea) Soldiers are taller than most Koreans, and all are masters in the martial arts. We're told we can take pictures next to them, but never get behind them and never try to grab one. Even if they are on our side. 

In conversations that never elevated above whispers, the Airmen took photos and treated the negotiation rooms with the deference of a church or hospital. 

Our next stop was the scene of the famed axe murders of 1976 and a plaque commemorated the spot of the tragic incident. Finally we made our way to the "bridge of no return," made famous as a point following the signing of the peace agreement in 1953 at the end of the Korean Conflict where prisoners from both sides were exchanged. The prisoners were given a choice of sides, but once the decision was made, there was no going back. 

Airman 1st Class Rich Crite was one Airman on the tour that took away a much better appreciation for why he serves.

"I came to the DMZ tour to see more of Korea and get a good understanding of why we're here. It's a different culture than our own and I think everyone should get a chance to experience something like this." 

We all walked away from this important tour with a lot of emotions and a sense of our own history. But more importantly, the Airmen of the Kunsan Wolfpack came away with a much better understanding of why their mission is so important 53 years after the end of hostilities between the two sides.